Remembering Pishi: I’ve lost a role model, confidante and second mother

 

On the 24th day of my pandemic isolation, I learned my Pishi, my auntie, had died in her home in Kolkata. The news was not wholly unexpected – she had been ill and suffering for many months. But nonetheless, a dread bore down on me so hard that it made me wonder if I had contracted the virus. How would I ever go home to Kolkata again without her there? She had been my main reason for journeying back to India in recent years. The thought that I would never see her again was crushing.

As a child, I spent many years living in my grandfather’s house. An extended family system was common in India; for sons to remain with their parents even after they had started their own families. The notion of living under one roof with grandparents, uncles, aunts and cousins feels somewhat overbearing now, but back then, I relished the attention showered upon me. I was closest to my father’s younger sister, my Pishi.

My father took this photo of Pishi and me in 1962 or 1963. I grew up idolizing her.

She had married and moved to Patna but returned home after her husband contracted meningitis and died way before his time. I was oblivious to the sorrow in Pishi’s life until many years later, when she was able to speak of those days without tears. She had kept the letters her husband had written to her long ago, each in an envelope of its own and stored them carefully in the bowels of one of her bedroom armoires. Things, especially paper, can easily disintegrate in the Kolkata’s harsh heat and humidity. So many of my own parents’ treasures were lost in this way. But Pishi had taken care to preserve what was most precious to her.

I am ashamed to say that I grew up oblivious to the things that mattered in Pishi’s life. Somehow, even when I had begun a career, married and carved out a life of my own, when I returned to Pishi’s house in Kolkata, I reverted back to being Pishi’s little “bhaiji,” or niece, as though I had not grown, as though memories were present day.

“What do you want to eat, Chum? she asked, calling me by an endearing version of my nickname. “What shall I make for you? Where shall we go today?”

She stood at the ready with my favorite Bengali dishes: Kochu Shak (taro stem) and Patishapte made with kheer (sort of like a crepe). I’m not even sure how to describe these delectable dishes in English to give them justice. My cousin Bideesha loves Malpua (a syrupy pancake) and Pishi would make them for her, no matter what time of day or night. Pishi never had a big kitchen – it was hard for even two people to navigate the narrow galley. She didn’t have real china or fancy tableware. None of that mattered. She took meticulous care to prepare food for me.

But it wasn’t about how tasty everything was. Rather, it was an act of salvation. She could have served mediocrity and I would have relished every mouthful. She was a vital link to all that I cherished of home.

For a while, when Pishi was in her youthful 80s, we made it a ritual to go out for masala dosa (a savory potato-stuffed crepe). Pishi and I strolled to a small South Indian café, Vatika, near her flat on Lakeview Road. We sat by the window, watching the heat rise from the freshly washed pavement, sipped our lukewarm Limcas and basked in nostalgia. She had seen me from the day my parents adopted me, a fact from which I drew immense comfort. It was something that was sorely missing from my life in America and I soaked up the stories she told me of my childhood.

In my younger years, I saw Pishi as invincible. She was Wonder Woman. Smart. Beautiful. Compassionate. Stylish. Fun. And most of all, for me, empowering.

I followed her to Sharoda Ashram, the Bengali-medium school for girls, where she taught for many years. I knew all her friends and often accompanied her on her outings. Pishi took me walking by the lakes and we fed breadcrumbs to the carp and koi. On weekends we went to the horticultural gardens, and to the zoo, where I famously tucked my face in the folds of her sari when the hippopotamus spread its jaws and came roaring out of the water. This was a story Pishi liked to tell, even to strangers, even when I was well into my years, much to my chagrin. I reflect on it now and believe she took great pride in being my protector — which she was.

She took me shopping to Gariahat and bought me all the things my father disapproved of: pointy shoes, liquid kum kum (the embellishment on Indian women’s foreheads)  and street food. Most notably freshly fried

Pishi, my cousin Bideesha and me at Bideesha’s wedding in 1998.

samosas or phuchkas (puffed bread pockets stuffed with fiery hot potatoes and then drenched in cumin water). We reveled in our act of rebellion. “Don’t tell Baba,” she admonished me.

And on Thursday evenings, I sat quietly with her in the mezzanine worship room while she performed Lakshmi (the goddess of wealth and purity) puja. I listened to her chant mantras in Sanskrit, not understanding a word but comforted by her lilting voice.

I spent countless hours cooking with her and my great aunt, who, too, was widowed at a young age, in the ground floor kitchen or the courtyard, where, unhappily, it

was my task to fan the coals. And at night, I often tucked myself into Pishi’s bed, closing the edges of the mosquito net tight around us. Just me and Pishi. She read me stories from the Bengali children’s book Thakumar Jhuli or we talked and talked until we fell asleep to the heady smell of jasmine, oblivious to the power cut and the sweltering heat. The next morning, it was Pishi who got me ready for school, braiding my hair and tying it with red ribbons.

I followed Pishi around the house so closely that my grandfather joked I was stuck to her for life; that I would never be able to separate from her. I so wished it to be true.

In 1975, my family settled in the United States and I saw Pishi less, though every time I went home to visit, I stayed with her. She had a larger presence in my life again after my mother suffered a massive stroke and my parents moved back to Kolkata. For many years, I returned to India at least once a year, sometimes, two or three times. And every time, I could not wait to see Pishi.

Pishi loved to cook for me. This was one of the last ties she had the strength to do so.

After my own mother died, almost 20 years ago, my bond with Pishi grew even stronger. She was a woman of simple means and yet, she wrote me letters and even called once in a while. And I when I returned to Kolkata, not a day went by without a trip to Flat 3D in Ananda. Our conversations took on seriousness and a strange urgency, as though we both knew time would slip away before either one of us had unburdened ourselves.

We spoke of her premature widowhood and of a relationship she had with a man who was still married. She was scorned for carrying on in such a manner in a society that was, at that time, far more socially conservative. But I knew that she loved him and that she had, for the first time in many years, felt joy. I do believe her heart broke when he left Kolkata to return to his family. Pishi soldiered on, never letting the outside world know of her grief. It took a long time for the void to be less stinging.

And it took a long time before we spoke of the dark moments in her life. I had hoped to have so many more conversations; there remained so many unanswered questions. Now, I never will. That is my regret.

But I do know this: Even though she had her share of loss and sorrow, she never unburdened herself on others. I admired her strength in the face of adversity. I admired her independence and will to live as she pleased. I admired her selflessness. I think of my childhood and what I used to say to Pishi: “I want to be just like you one day.”

Somehow, I hope Pishi knows I am working on it.

 

 

Memories of Durga Pujo and a very different Kolkata

 

The gods created Durga with 10 arms to carry a weapon with each to slay the devil king.

 

 

 

 

I grew up in a Kolkata that is vastly different than the one today. My childhood memories are not of afternoons spent in South City’s sprawling food court eating burgers or watching movies in IMAX theaters.

In my youth, Kolkata fell frequently into darkness during incessant power cuts and my brother and I grew desperate to escape the thick, hot air of my grandfather’s house. We played cricket on the streets and ate phuchka at the New Alipur park. I saw the movie “Yaadon ki Baaraat” at least a dozen times just to get out of the sun, sit under a fan and listen to my favorite Bollywood song, “Chura Liya Hai Tumne.” That was the only way to hear it unless a neighborhood paan and bidi stall decided to blast it with a mic.

Adda was a thing. I mean, really a thing, and we often accompanied Ma on evening jaunts to visit friends and relatives. I lived through food rations and water shortages. I hung from crowded buses hoping my slip-on shoes would not slip off. Back then, only the uber-wealthy owned cars. My father never did; not on his professorial salary at the Indian Statistical Institute.

Life seemed hard compared to the modern conveniences of what middle class Kolkatans have now. We had little in the way of consumer goods or comfort. We slept on hard beds and without air-conditioning, we awoke drenched every morning, our pores opened wide and cleaned by air wetter than a damp towel. I dreamed of a day when we would no longer have to beg my uncle, then a merchant marine, to bring us back Kit-Kats from his adventures overseas. Or when I wouldn’t have to think of creative ways to stretch the waistline on the one pair of jeans I had left, as though I could defy childhood growth.

Continue readingMemories of Durga Pujo and a very different Kolkata

My week in Umbria, Part 1

Hiatus over. I’m back with a heartbreaking story from Florida

Hurricane Michael wiped out 85 percent of the homes in Mexico Beach, Florida.
Hurricane Michael wiped out 85 percent of the homes in Mexico Beach, Florida. (Photo by Moni Basu)

I haven’t written in a while. I’ve been busy. In the months since my last post, I quit my job at CNN, moved to Gainesville, Florida, and began teaching writing and reporting classes at the University of Florida. Life changing, for sure.

Now that I am a bit more settled, I plan to resume this blog once again. Hopefully, it will get a shiny, new look soon. I have students who are smarter than me in coding who are helping me with that.

I am also starting to dive back into my own journalism, which I had to put on pause until now as I got more accustomed to academic life. My first freelance piece published this week in The Bitter Southerner. It’s an essay about the devastation Hurricane Michael caused in Mexico Beach and how a lot of people seem to have forgotten about the part of the Florida Panhandle that is, ironically, knows as the Forgotten Coast. It was a difficult story because of the tremendous loss people have suffered. But I felt in my element again, notebook and pen in hand. I had missed reporting so.

I hope you will read the story. I hope you will visit Mexico Beach. And thank you in advance.

Can Mexico Beach be Mexico Beach again?

As you watch the royal wedding…

An official photo of the royal couple from Kensington Palace.

For many weeks, we’ve been saturated with news of the Royal Wedding. This time, there’s a higher interest in some of my circles because Meghan Markle is an American commoner and more importantly, a woman of color.

Saturday, millions will tune in to watch the spectacle. CNN and other major media outlets have devoted a whole lot of energy and resources to covering this story.

I tried hard to understand the mass obsession with the British monarchy and wrote about it for CNN: A royal skeptic meets Americans obsessed with Harry and Meghan.

Beyond my homeland’s ugly history with the British Empire, I suppose I find all this royalty stuff rather silly. I also think it says a lot about the world we live in.

Last weekend, I went to visit the Clarkson Community Health Center that offers free services for refugees in Atlanta. In the short time I spent there, I heard horrific stories of human trauma and survival. One Rohingya woman spent 25 years in a Malaysian camp. Her husband died there and she is separated from the rest of her family except for one son, who also managed to make it to America. Her life has been so difficult that she wishes now she could return to that wretched camp.

It was again reminded of the tales of suffering I’ve heard from people I have encountered on my reporting trips. The Rohingyas, South Sudanese, Syrians, Iraqis. The list is long and includes many Americans.

Their realities are in such incredibly stark contrast to the events at Windsor this weekend.

Consider that the royal wedding could cost more than $1.4 million and that does not include security. The dress alone could top $300,000 and the flowers, $70,000. British taxpayers will ultimately bear much of the cost and not all Britons are thrilled about paying for a lavish private event.

It seems the money could be spent in a more useful way. Why do these things have to be so over the top? Why is this such a huge news story? What makes British monarchs so worthy of attention in 2018? What does this say about the things we value in life? I don’t have any answers but I’m pondering these questions this weekend. And no, I will not be waking up at 4 a.m. to watch live. Sorry, Harry and Meghan.

Yes, child marriage still happens in America

Sherry Johnson is fighting to end child marriage.
Sherry and me in Tallahassee.

Few people perceive America as being a land where child marriage occurs. But it does.

I did not know what a persistent problem it was until I came upon Sherry Johnson, who was raped repeatedly at 8, had a baby at 10 and was forced to marry one of her rapists at 11. It happened in Florida.

My homeland is India, which leads the world in the number of child marriages every year. My own grandmother was married off at 11, the same age Johnson was when she signed on the dotted line.

I knew about the devastating consequences marriage at such a young age can have and was shocked to learn of women like Sherry.

I spent three days with her in Tallahassee, where she has become an advocate for survivors. She has been telling her story to lawmakers in hopes of increasing support for bills in the Legislature that would effectively end child marriage. If they pass, Florida will become the first state to say no, unequivocally, to marriage for anyone under 18.

Please read my story on CNN. It’s important.

 

 

Yeah, we were bummed but we soldiered on at Georgia

MFA students listen to author Denene Millner.
MFA students listen to author Denene Millner.

This morning, the University of Georgia felt post-apocalyptic. The day after disaster, a lot of folks were regretting too many beers and mason jar glasses of vino verde as they tried to make sense of their team’s unraveling. How did Georgia blow its first chance since 1980 to win the national college football championship?

But we soldiered on.

Even though most of campus showed no signs of life, those of us in the low-residency MFA program in narrative non-fiction gathered in Room 277 of the Special Collections Libraries. It was Day 3 of our weeklong gathering. On Sunday, we will scatter to the winds for the rest of the semester in pursuit of a common goal: to become better writers.

This morning, we had the pleasure of listening to author Denene Millner talk about her highly successful career and how she uses social media to promote her work.

It is another session in which we all learned something. It was a meaningful way to detach from the crushing disappointment of the night before.

The MFA program, a brainchild of my friend, author and distinguished Professor Valerie Boyd, has uplifted me on the most ordinary of days and today, when darkness prevailed on Athens.

I was asked recently to name one thing I have learned from my teaching experience in the UGA MFA program. I can’t remember exactly how I answered but one thing is clear to me. I love being here because I never stop learning.

I work in the high-stress newsroom of a 24/7 network and we rarely have the luxury of time to stop and discuss the work we are producing. It’s refreshing for me to spend the week in a quieter environment that allows all of us to talk about craft.

Our students produce the finest work published as books or in prestigious publications like The New York Times and the Oxford American. It gives me immense pleasure to know that their stories help us understand the world around us; that their stories are such a pleasure to read. And I am proud to have played a role, however small, in helping them make it as writers.

So here’s to all our students. Proud to be here at UGA.

Hello, 2018…

…I am glad you are here. Finally. I have been waiting for you to arrive for a very long time. 2017 was not kind to me. It was probably the most difficult year since 2001. That was the year that I witnessed massive death and destruction after an earthquake in India and months later, the world changed forever with the September 11 attacks. In between, both my father and mother died. I felt burdened with grief for so many months.

2017 was difficult in other ways. I was physically debilitated for the first time in my life because of a serious spinal problem. I under

My dog Gizmo is among the many good things in my life.
My dog Gizmo is among the many good things in my life.

went surgery, thinking it would allow me to be free again. But days became weeks and weeks became months and I still wake up every day in pain.

I realized how hard it must be for millions of people around the world who are forced to function without full use of their bodies. I realized how not being able to perform the simplest tasks – like walking the dog or picking up a piece of paper from the floor – can lead to isolation, self-pity and eventually, depression.

Most importantly, I realized I had to be grateful for all the strengths I do have and not focus on my weaknesses. I don’t much care for New Year’s resolutions but January 1 seems an appropriate day for reflection.

In the last few months, when I have felt blue, I have thought about all the people I have met over the years through my journalism. I decided a long time ago to focus my work on people who are vulnerable and voiceless; people who have survived tremendous loss. I chose to illuminate their resilience and strength after suffering war, death, disaster, torture, rape, separation, unjust imprisonment.

I could easily have been one of them. I was left on the steps of an orphanage in Kolkata when I was just a day old. I had the incredibly good fortune of being adopted by two loving parents who gave me everything a child could ask for. I think often about all the doors that opened for me because of my parents. And now, I think, too, about the subjects of my stories. They remind me of how lucky I am.

It’s vital to keep our lives in perspective. In America, the land of plenty, it can be so easy to lose sight of all the good things that come our way. I am guilty of complaining about things that in the long run are simply not important. I am guilty of losing patience or my temper in situations that are trivial.

I believe we, as a society, have inched toward narcissism. We think too much about ourselves — the way we look and act, the material goods we want and what others may think of us.

I think I will start looking outward a bit more. Starting today, back pain or not, I will try to make life more about others and less about me.

Gratefully, yours.

 

 

 

Khizr Khan has a message on Veterans Day

I felt proud when I first saw Khizr Khan on the stage of the Democratic National Convention last year. Not because of his politics but because of his courage. He lost a son in Iraq and because of that, he felt compelled to remind Americans of the greatness of this country. Of the rights and dignities afforded to all of us in the Constitution.

I felt proud because Khan was an immigrant like me, He, like so many of my friends and family, arrived from the Indian subcontinent with great hope for a life in, as Khan calls it, the best place on planet Earth.

Now, Khan has a new book out, “An American Family: A Memoir of Hope and Sacrifice.” It’s a story of the son of a Pakistani farmer who read Rumi by moonlight, studied law, fell in awe of the United States Constitution and then worked hard to study at Harvard and become a successful lawyer. It’s a story of a man devoted to his wife, Ghazala, and the three sons they raised together. And it’s a story of extreme loss and how he learned to live with grief after Captain Humayun Khan died in a 2004 suicide bombing in Baquba.

This week, I had the opportunity to spend some time with Khan in Raleigh, North Carolina, a stop on his book tour. On Veterans Day, his words resonated with many in his audience.

Click here to read the story on CNN: This immigrant and Gold Star father has a message on Veterans Day

 

 

 

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